Well it has been a jam packed couple of days. On
Monday I took my friend Laurent up to the Aiguille Rouge to do the
classic Traverse of the Crochue. Its never difficult with only a 20
metre Vdiff chimney at the start and then its just a glorious ridge
traverse which in some places is extremely airy. The previous week
here was pretty horrible weather wise and it was raining on Sunday
evening but with a 4 day forecast of blue skies I thought the
Traverse would be ideal way to start the good weather spell.
The entire south side of the Aiguille Rouge was
super dry but when we got up to the near the start and moved onto the
North Side it all changed to about 10cms of snow and ice! The Vdiff
chimney was slightly interesting without Crampons as was the normally
easy little 8 metre down climb but down climbing was impossible with
snow and ice filling all the holds so we agreed with the Guide in
front that an Abseil was wise.
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Interesting start |
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Brilliant Climbing |
It was perfect Blue Sky Scottish Winter Climbing
every time we moved onto the North Side and then nipping onto the
South Side we were in Sunshine and dry warm rock. There was a British
Guide just in front of us with a client and we chatted a fair bit
along the route and he couldn’t believe the difference in
conditions on both sides. It was like a long curved ridge in awesome
snowy conditions.
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North Side / South Side |
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Crochue Summit 2700m |
Even though Laurent is
not the most confident he was fine on it and thought it was a great
little route. We then made a super fast descent down snow all the way
to Lac Blanc and walked back to get the lift down to Cham.
Our day was not over
yet and on getting back down it was time to gather our Bivi gear and
go get some food and we drove up to Le Tour to walk up to the Albert
Premier Refuge(2702m) where would be spending the night in our tent
and then going to do the Aiguille De Tour the next morning. Our Bivi
spot was just amazing and after a healthy meal of cheap Chinese
noodles it was time to sleep.
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Walking to the Refuge |
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View from my Sleeping Bag |
We were up at 4am and
had a coffee then set off at 5am. Its a 10 min walk to the edge of
the Glacier and on arriving there I was amazed at the amount of
people. Easily 40+ mostly guided parties all struggling to put on
crampons and wearing enough clothes to summit Everest. I decided
there and then that we had to get past them all.
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Crampons on |
The Aiguille De
Tour(3542) via the normal route is a super easy outing and for that
reason is the perfect peak to take clients for their first Alpine Day
out. I wanted to get past them as I knew there was a pretty big
Bergshrund to pass and a little scramble to the Summit and with this
many people it could take all day trying to weave in and around them
safely whilst going up and coming down. So I set off pretty much at
full speed and by the bottom of the climb up to the Col Superieur Du
Tour we had passed all but one party , who we then passed once over
the Col.
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Heading up the Col - Next victims in my sights |
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Some of the groups we passed , even more are out of picture |
We then slowed and in
no time at all we were at the Bergshrund which was open but had a
pretty bomber snow bridge going over it , once over we then took off
crampons for the scramble to the top. Like the day before the
scramble was easy but it was proper iced up and crampons may have
helped but we got to the summit just as a cloud hit us so no view but
at least we had it to ourselves.
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Just crossed the Col , Now in Switzerland |
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Summit |
Just as we got back to
our Crampons the masses had arrived , there were at least 15 people
taking off crampons and about 20 just waiting in turn to cross the
Shrund. I decided to just do what the French Guides do and ignore
everyone and just be rude and get down over the Bergshrund. We had a
seat once over the snow bridge and enjoyed the views over to
Switzerland. We made it back to the Tent in no time as its mostly
downhill and we were back there at 10am. We then packed away our Bivi
gear and I stuck on my trainers for the descent down to the chairlift
at Le Tour.
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Leaving the masses behind |
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Back at chairlift , looking down the Cham Valley |
The Aiguille Du Tour is
a cracking little peak to do as an intro to the Alps. Its not
difficult going the normal way but does have a classic ridge on it
that I will need to go back and do. The hike form the chairlift to
the Refuge on day 1 is only 600m and is not that bad. Day 2 is an
840m ascent to the summit and then a 1300m descent back to the
chairlift. My advice , stash trainers at the refuge for the descent.
We were back in
Chamonix at lunchtime and after eating I just crashed out for a few
hours then got up and went out an hour on the bike. A brilliant
couple of days and was great to take Laurent out as the has been
asking me for ages to do something with him.
I’m off Wed and Thurs
as well and it will definitely be a run one of those but unsure what
to do the other. All this Mountain stuff will be helping my legs for CCC. Well I hope so.
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